Hiking to Lac de Gaube
When researching top hikes in the French Pyrenees, we came across the hike to Lac de Gaube, a lake near the town of Cauterets well known for its beauty and ease of access, as you can choose to get there by hiking up through the mountains or going by cable car followed by a level walk to the lake. We chose the more immersive and difficult option by hiking through the mountains and enjoyed every single moment, from the Pont d'Espagne all the way to Gaube Lake on the paths that led up, up, and up, gaining an elevation of 325 meters. The 5 mile loop was pleasant, accompanied by blue skies, temperatures in the 70’s, and plenty of shade due to the heavily forested paths. Considering the route is basically one big staircase from beginning to end, my legs were on fire, but the view that awaited me at the end of the journey buried all feelings of discomfort.
We prepared for our hike as per usual with a drive through the mountains to the hiking spot where we found a massive parking lot, followed by sitting down for some lunch in our camper van and changing into our hiking clothes. Fresh baguette had quickly become a daily necessity and pairing it with hummus and olives became a favorite. We packed some in our hiking bag along with a fruit and nut mix, some vegan jerky, a couple of protein bars, and plenty of water with electrolytes. We were ready to hit the trails, so we began by walking to a large building straight ahead where we found an information center, a machine where we would pay a small fee, and a map of our route to the lake.
A 5 minute walk brought us to a small hotel and cafe just around the corner from the Cascades Pont d’Espagne: a beautiful waterfall flowing into a gorge crossed by a stone bridge. The name Pont d’Espagne marks the historic location of a path leading to Spain that used to go through this valley. We spent a few minutes here appreciating the evergreen trees and the warm sun that streamed through their branches, casting us and everything around in a golden light.
I didn’t want to leave this little piece of bliss that I’d found. Standing here at the edge of this path, I bathed in the warmth of the sun and studied the walls of the gorge, taking note of every shrub and bit of moss that grew upon them. I lost myself in the rushing dark blue water that frothed and foamed below me as I became transfixed on a dancing rainbow in the mist and midst of it all. The scene felt too perfect to be real, as if every detail had been hand picked by a greater power, the purpose simply being to astound every single soul who set their eyes upon it.
We couldn’t stay here forever, unfortunately. So, we made our way onto the trail that would take us higher and higher in elevation until we made it to Gaube Lake. We crossed occasional pockets of mossy forest that we would wander into for a short reprieve from the sun.
There were small breaks where our path would level out and the burning sensation in our thighs would have a chance to dissipate. We’d linger in these areas, taking a little extra time to explore on flatter ground.
After a few hours, the flora began to disperse, the trail opened up onto green hills, and the mountains in front of us, no longer concealed by the trees, rose up into the clouds and completely overwhelmed the horizon. Every step we took led us up the grassy hill and closer to a glimpse of the lake, until it was there; a sparkling pool of pure turquoise, almost too brilliant to believe.
A small cafe sat a few meters from the water’s edge where we purchased popsicles and then ventured down to the smooth boulders and soft grass that surrounded the lake, providing a comfortable place to rest and have a snack in the sunshine while a softly blowing breeze kept us the perfect amount of cool. Vaughn jumped in for a swim in the cold water while I watched from shore, pulling apart the last of the baguette and finishing off the hummus and olives we had brought with us; a moment of pure joy.
The sun dipped behind the mountains and the turquoise water deepened to an emerald green. With the sun gone, the cool breeze brought with it a chill, so we packed up our belongings and walked the perimeter of the lake for a bit before heading back down the trail.
The hike back down the trail was fast moving. As you know, walking down a staircase is much easier than walking up one. Our surroundings were now bathed in an evening light and took on a new life as we passed the same notable landmarks as before. When we got back to our van, our feet and legs felt a familiar ache, but once again it was accompanied by feelings of accomplishment and complete satisfaction as to how we had spent out day. The vision of approaching that luminescent turquoise surface at the base of the mountains is a memory I will keep forever.
